Photo Friday: Backpacking the Beartooths, Part 2

Last weekend I posted photos from the first two days of a backpack trip into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Today we're doing a couple more days, and next week I'll finish the trip.

Day 3: Jordan Lake to Ouzel Lake

It was a chilly morning--I was up before sunrise for photography, and the plants down by the lake (the coldest spot) were frosted. It was worth it.

Sunrise reflected in Jordan Lake.

Sunrise reflections at Jordan Lake.

Despite the chill, we were on the trail before 8 a.m., for a day that would range from easy walking on excellent trail to tedious route-finding through a giant talus field. 

The first part, over a small rise to Otter Lake, was easy, and we were still enjoying the early light.

A mountain tarn with some fun clouds, just above Jordan Lake.

At Otter Lake the trail is a bit hit-and-miss as you walk alongside the lake (I think the official trail ends at the east end of the lake, where we started). We had to pick our way around the lake, then around the side of Mariane Lake as well. 

Traversing above the lakes.

Lots of wildflowers were out, here where the sun warmed the rocks (or where the rocks captured the rain?).

Flowers--DYCs and something purple--Parry's Primrose? 

These have to be some kind of berry. Look closely in the shadowed flower for a pollinator.

The shores of Mariane Lake

We had elevenses somewhere in there, then happily picked up the trail again at the outlet of Mariane Lake. Alas, that led us right into the biggest talus field so far, and a slow descent through the mess towards Russell Lake (which our route didn't quite reach and we never saw).

Eventually, however,  we found "The Beaten Path"--the main trail that traverses the wilderness from south to north (or north to south, of course). This is typically the most heavily traveled route, and we did see signs of heavier use. I can't say we saw a lot of other people, however. We sat down by the bridge over the creek and had second lunch.

Russell Creek--at 8800' it's as low as anything on the trip, including our trailheads and the low camp at Granite Lake. We lost a lot of elevation and had to regain a bunch of it before dinner.

 
The Beaten Path (Russell Creek Trail) was pretty well graded, so the climb up to our camp at Ouzel Lake (9400'--we didn't have to get all the way back up before dinner!) wasn't bad. We found the lake scenic and the campsite excellent (lots of flat bits, nicely scattered, and the right distance from water).

Ouzel Lake camp. 

Bugs were moderate, but enough to make for difficult choices between tents made too hot by the afternoon sun and getting sucked on by mosquitos. By dinnertime, however, a breeze made the bugs bearable, and we enjoyed our food and an hour of great light down by the lake.

Ouzel Lake

More Ouzel Lake

Smokey sunset looking toward Yellowstone.

 Stats: Roughly 5 miles, 1100' up and 1800' down.

Day 4: Ouzel Lake to Oly Lake 

We were up early (backpacking does tend to lead to waking at first light, which is fine since it also tends to cause one to sleep by 9 p.m.).  We had a special treat with our breakfast: a mama mountain goat and her kid came to visit. 

Mother and kid

The unbearably fuzzy kid.

The critters were actually a little disconcerting, since they kept circling the camp about 20 or 30' out, meaning we had to sneak out past them to go find a private spot. They never did leave--we're the ones who finally left them. They have clearly been habituated to humans, and might be accustomed to handouts as well as the salt-licks we all leave behind us.

Petey Possum sits atop my pile of stuff, waiting to be packed up and proving he's not scared of mountain goats, even if they do look pretty big to him.

 

Hitting the trail at 7:35, despite all the time spent photographing the goats, we immediately resumed the climb toward the divide (10,000'). We passed Bald Knob Lake, then on to Skull Lake. Both were pretty, though lacking the spectacular cliff backdrop of Ouzel Lake.

Passing along the shore of Bald Knob Lake.

Pretty sure this one was Bald Knob Lake.

In addition to the DYCs and the purple flowers I think are Parry's Primrose, we started seeing columbines in shades from cream through yellow.

There was a good little climb from Skull Lake to the Divide, so we stopped for a snack. In case you're wondering, we are all old enough to realize that the point is being there and enjoying ourselves. We're not interested in making miles, speed records, or totally exhausting ourselves. And I, at least, have learned that I need to keep a steady flow of fuel to keep hiking.
 

Skull Lake, probably.

The divide is a broad and shallow thing, where you have to pay attention to realize that you've changed drainage. We passed above Fizzle Lake, and stopped for Second Breakfast and/or Elevenses at Fossil Lake, which sprawls across the divide with many lobes. It's pretty barren, but would be an interesting place to camp and explore when the weather is stable.

 Fossil Lake 

From there we descended again, on the East Rosebud Trail (still the Beaten Path). By the time we left the trail at the outlet stream from Oly lake, we'd seen maybe 3 or 4 other parties. There haven't been enough people on this route up to Oly for there to be a use trail, so we eyeballed the two possible routes to the lake, studied the map, and stuck to the stream.

Ascending the outlet

 

More flowers. Indian Paintbrush, some past-their-prime asters, and those DYCs.

 
At the final climb to the lake, the stream cascaded down through the rocks into a pool that might have been a temptation for a swim, except the day wasn't really that warm. Anyway, I like to have my bathe after I'm done hiking for the day, so I can enjoy being clean.

The stream and pool.

Alex along the lakeshore.

It took a little hunting, but we found a pretty good area for our camp.

Camp. Nicely scattered tents with a kitchen on the rocks.

The weather, as we were beginning to expect, got a bit rowdy for a while. We had some good thunder and lightning, and rain showers that eventually (after plenty of gaps for dinner and explorations) settled in to a heavy rain by half past seven. This is why I carry my e-reader.

Oly Lake. Calm before storming.

Our day ended up something like 5 1/2  miles, with a net gain of only a couple of hundred feet, though we climbed over a thousand. That's how it goes in the mountain--what goes up, must come down (and frequently vice-versa).

Storm clouds gathering.

 

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 ©Rebecca M. Douglass, 2026 

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